Eating venison - for our good and the good of the land
20/11/09 12:18
I have copied this excellent piece from the Slow Food UK newsletter, about my friends Nichola and John Fletcher who have a marvellous farmed venison business in Fife, very close to Cupar (where there is the best whisky shop or bottle shop that I have ever been in!). Check out the Slow Food UK website for more interesting news.
Nichola and John Fletcher own Reediehill Deer Farm in Auchtermuchty, Fife, and have been running their small family business for over thirty years. Dr John Fletcher is Britain's only vet specialising in deer and is also one of the country's foremost experts in deer management. Whilst John supervises the herd of red deer which graze free-range on the farm, Nichola manages the venison side of the business. She also works with specialist organisations to pass on her knowledge about venison.
Early last month, the Slow Food UK team visited the Fletcher's farm to learn more about venison meat and deer farming. Here is how we got on.
1.So, why venison?
We need to kill deer to protect trees and crops and it is obviously good to eat those, but over and above that, deer meat - whether wild or farmed - is recognised as much healthier nutritionally than conventional livestock. So much so that the American Institute for Cancer Research and the World Cancer Research Fund state that 'consumption of meat from non-domesticated animals is preferable'. It is now accepted by many scientists that we have evolved to eat game meat and that the fatty subsidised grain-fed meats of recent history are killing us. Anyway, venison tastes better!
2.In terms of carbon footprint how does venison fare?
Deer are not normally fed cereals, so are much better than cattle and sheep and infinitely better than pigs and poultry. Also legislation allows us to kill farmed deer on the farm - unlike conventional livestock - without recourse to distant abattoirs so we can dramatically reduce food miles and retain rural employment. From the global warming perspective, of course, deer are not significantly different to other ruminants in the quantities of methane they produce.
3.What do you think of the growing trend in cutting down meat consumption?
Of course everyone in the first world eats too much meat - white or red - and no-one doubts that. However, in temperate regions, there are many places where the only crop that can grow is grass and we can't digest grass. If we are to use these areas to feed people, then we have to graze animals or abandon the land. This is why vegetarianism is more sustainable nearer the equator and less sustainable nearer the poles.
4.How can slow food increase their support of breeders and producers around the UK?
By drawing the urban public’s attention to the realities of life so as not to keep alive urban myths about the countryside, farming and animal husbandry, some of which are woefully inaccurate and get repeated down the generations. In particular, many journalists would benefit from learning about the realities, not all of which perhaps fit into their preconceived ‘ideals’.
5.The best way to cook venison?
First, buy good venison (which could be farmed or wild; neither is ‘best’ as it depends on its age and how it has been handled). To roast, grill or fry, brown it, part-cook it and then rest it for perfect results. To slow cook, make sure it is kept moist by either introducing some fat (eg a pot roast), or immerse in a liquid (eg a stew), and serve with succulent vegetables and a creamy sauce. Ideally get hold of a copy of Nichola Fletcher’s (my wife) Ultimate Venison Cookery. This is the most stunningly practical and oh so useful cookbook. It’snot glossy or stuffed full of pictures but it’s indispensable. RM
6.A message to the youth of today, currently disconnected with the origins of food?
Face up to reality and loosen up a bit. There is no perfect solution. Meat eating, vegetarianism and veganism all have their problems, both social and environmental, when feeding a mass population. We are humans; we need to eat, and we need to conserve our planet. This means a variety of solutions that will make best use of differing environments. The best thing we can do is to eat less, but be more discerning about what we eat. There must be food for everyone, not just rich western nations.
If you would like to find out how to buy Nichola and John's venison, or learn more about their farming techniques, please visit www.seriouslygoodvenison.co.uk
Nichola and John Fletcher own Reediehill Deer Farm in Auchtermuchty, Fife, and have been running their small family business for over thirty years. Dr John Fletcher is Britain's only vet specialising in deer and is also one of the country's foremost experts in deer management. Whilst John supervises the herd of red deer which graze free-range on the farm, Nichola manages the venison side of the business. She also works with specialist organisations to pass on her knowledge about venison.
Early last month, the Slow Food UK team visited the Fletcher's farm to learn more about venison meat and deer farming. Here is how we got on.
1.So, why venison?
We need to kill deer to protect trees and crops and it is obviously good to eat those, but over and above that, deer meat - whether wild or farmed - is recognised as much healthier nutritionally than conventional livestock. So much so that the American Institute for Cancer Research and the World Cancer Research Fund state that 'consumption of meat from non-domesticated animals is preferable'. It is now accepted by many scientists that we have evolved to eat game meat and that the fatty subsidised grain-fed meats of recent history are killing us. Anyway, venison tastes better!
2.In terms of carbon footprint how does venison fare?
Deer are not normally fed cereals, so are much better than cattle and sheep and infinitely better than pigs and poultry. Also legislation allows us to kill farmed deer on the farm - unlike conventional livestock - without recourse to distant abattoirs so we can dramatically reduce food miles and retain rural employment. From the global warming perspective, of course, deer are not significantly different to other ruminants in the quantities of methane they produce.
3.What do you think of the growing trend in cutting down meat consumption?
Of course everyone in the first world eats too much meat - white or red - and no-one doubts that. However, in temperate regions, there are many places where the only crop that can grow is grass and we can't digest grass. If we are to use these areas to feed people, then we have to graze animals or abandon the land. This is why vegetarianism is more sustainable nearer the equator and less sustainable nearer the poles.
4.How can slow food increase their support of breeders and producers around the UK?
By drawing the urban public’s attention to the realities of life so as not to keep alive urban myths about the countryside, farming and animal husbandry, some of which are woefully inaccurate and get repeated down the generations. In particular, many journalists would benefit from learning about the realities, not all of which perhaps fit into their preconceived ‘ideals’.
5.The best way to cook venison?
First, buy good venison (which could be farmed or wild; neither is ‘best’ as it depends on its age and how it has been handled). To roast, grill or fry, brown it, part-cook it and then rest it for perfect results. To slow cook, make sure it is kept moist by either introducing some fat (eg a pot roast), or immerse in a liquid (eg a stew), and serve with succulent vegetables and a creamy sauce. Ideally get hold of a copy of Nichola Fletcher’s (my wife) Ultimate Venison Cookery. This is the most stunningly practical and oh so useful cookbook. It’snot glossy or stuffed full of pictures but it’s indispensable. RM
6.A message to the youth of today, currently disconnected with the origins of food?
Face up to reality and loosen up a bit. There is no perfect solution. Meat eating, vegetarianism and veganism all have their problems, both social and environmental, when feeding a mass population. We are humans; we need to eat, and we need to conserve our planet. This means a variety of solutions that will make best use of differing environments. The best thing we can do is to eat less, but be more discerning about what we eat. There must be food for everyone, not just rich western nations.
If you would like to find out how to buy Nichola and John's venison, or learn more about their farming techniques, please visit www.seriouslygoodvenison.co.uk