I ate last night at Crouchers on the Birdham Road in Donnington. It was excellent. I had a delicious starter of ham hock with pistachios, and then a faggot of braised lamb, which was a surprise in presentation and very delicious. The set menu had plenty to choose from and, with 3 courses ex wine at just under £25, represented terrific value. I would have been happy with any choice from the starters, main courses and puds.

With house wines led by a very affordable pair from Boschendal - doubtless chosen by the South African Mine Host - and slick, efficient staff who smiled the whole time (how unusual is that?) I shall be back.